Fry Environment

Home Info Galleries Diary Menu



Other Fry Subjects:

Nursery Setups
 Feeding Fry
Raising Fry
Fry Environment



Other info options:

Dwarf Basics
Raising Fry
Species Info
WC vs CB


Fry Environment

Fry-proofing your tank is much like child-proofing your home with the same drastic results if hazards are overlooked.  I've heard it said that fry seem to be on a mission to seek out anything that might possibly hurt them.  You must keep them away from heaters, filters, and intakes of all kinds.  Either use dividers or sponges to block all dangerous items.  Don't leave even a tiny gap as they will either get through it or get their tail stuck in it.  I've had problems using filter material as it can create a "Velcro effect" with the little seahorse spines.  Avoid tankmates.  Juveniles can be housed with snails and small shrimp (and keep an eye on the shrimp).

The quality of your water is life or death to your fry.  Remember that there are many substances which we do not test for - be absolutely sure of the safety of any decorations you might add to the tank.  Be sure to rinse all food items whether live or thawed.  Test at least the salinity, ph, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels at least weekly.  Test for ammonia several times a day in nurseries and daily in grow out tanks - ammonia is true poison to fry and you must do as many water changes as necessary to keep it down.  When our fry were young and kept in unfiltered, un-cycled tanks we did as many as 4 water changes (20-30%) per day and larger changes when ammonia tests showed it was needed.  In cycled tanks less water changes will be needed, but you must be obsessive about testing.  Water quality may also become a problem when you first start offering frozen foods which may not be eaten - so pay close attention.

Hydroids are one of the most dreaded of problems when it comes to fry.  Hydroids come in several forms from "dots with legs" on the glass to long cob-web looking things on rocks and plants.  Hydroids sting and kill fry.  For this reason, most people avoid live sand (also hard to keep clean), live rock and even macro algae in nurseries.  Panacur can be used to kill hydroids but it will also kill corals, some snails, starfish, and other inverts - the effects of panacur can last for many months.  Macro algae can be rinsed with hydrogen peroxide then rinsed in freshwater, then rinsed in saltwater to be sure no hydroids are present.  Hydrogen Peroxide is very dangerous to all living critters for a limited time, however, once it breaks down into water and oxygen no lingering effects are present.  Rock can be treated in the same manner or boiled however it will be dead rock at that point and will need to slowly build the nitrifying bacteria colony you need.  Hydroids can be introduced with the BBS as well - decapping brine eggs will avoid that possibility also rinsing the brine before adding to the nursery.


We strive for accuracy, however, use of this information is at your own risk.

Copyright 2004 World of Seahorses.  All rights reserved